Ok, so I need clarification on some issues, so anyone who can help will be appreciated. (yes, i meant that the way i wrote it)
1. As I have only been knitting (seriously) for 1year and 2months, I have gradually accumulated by reading blogs and books on the subject, that sock yarn does not count as stash. Does this mean that if you have a majority of sock yarn, that that part of the stash doesn’t count, even if you have twice as much of it? Or what if you only buy, knit, and cuddle sock yarn, then technically you don’t own any stash?
2. If you started a Stitch n Bitch/Knitting Circle/whatever you call it, how did you go about doing it? I have seen some ‘rules’ as well as descriptions of how other people did, and I would like to start one, however I would like more info before I dive in.
3. I have been knitting from a number of sock patterns, and the toes always seem really pointy to me (The ones I have seen are decrease one round, knit the next, repeated until there are 8 stitches, then Kitchener/thread yarn through.) If you have a way for me to get them to be less pointy and fit better, please let me know. (I have been knitting them from the top down, I am going to try toe-up next, but I would still like to have socks that I can wear without the witch shoes.)
4. Any suggestions for good online sources of yarn enhancement, as I find it difficult to get to a yarn store?
I already appreciate you anyway for reading my blog!
Who Needs Gauge?! 
I’ve only been knitting for about as long as you, so I’m not sure I’m the best person to answer these questions. Still, I’ll give it a go.
1. The idea that sock yarn does not count as stash is simply a way of making us feel better about accumulating so much of it. Sock yarn is so easy to buy–you only need one or two skeins of it–that it’s nearly impossible to resist. That’s why many people participating in “Knit from your stash in 2007” have put in that sock yarn loophole.
2. Sorry, no info on this.
3. When I do sock toes, I do the decreases every other round until I have 10 or 11 stitches on each needle (40-44 stitches total), then I decrease every round until I have 5-6 stitches on each needle (20-24 stitches total). Doing it this way makes the toes a bit less pointy. Also keep in mind that doing the last decreases every round will make the toe slightly shorter than if you had done all the decreases every other round.
4. Oh my, so many! You probably already know about a lot of these. This is not an exhaustive list by any means.
General:
http://www.knitpicks.com/
http://www.elann.com/
http://www.yarn.com/
http://www.littleknits.com/
http://www.carodanfarm.com/
http://www.sarahsyarns.com/
http://www.knittingzone.com/
http://fearlessfibers.etsy.com/
http://www.lisaknit.com/
http://www.paradisefibers.net/
http://theknittinggarden.com/
http://www.yarnmarket.com/
http://www.beaverslide.com/
Sock yarn only:
http://www.theloopyewe.com/
http://www.yarn4socks.com/
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re not having pointy toes. i feel that 8 stitches is way too few to end with. just start the toe part of the sock later, and end with more stitches (like 16). at least, that’s what i have done! i have knitted 3.5 socks so far. 🙂
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I think that many knitters say sock yarn “doesn’t count” because it’s such a small purchase compared to, say, a sweater’s worth. Personally, my feeling is that I knit, and as part of that larger pursuit I also collect yarn, the way someone else might collect butterflies, or stamps. So technically I don’t think any of it “counts” because I like it in its pre-knit state as much as I like actually knitting!
As for the socks, just skip some of the plain knit rounds. For example, try knitting the decrease round then a plain knit round until about half or so (whatever works for your feet — a toe is a small thing to frog) of the stitches have been decreased, then work the decrease round every round. I’ve also put short rows on the toes of my socks before so that they fit better — but when doing this you have to remember that you’ll be knitting one right-foot sock and one left-foot sock.
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Hi,,
I like the “round toe” here’s how it goes:
They are formed by working the decreases evenly spaced all around the toe, rather than just at the sides.
The toe is worked over a number of stitches divisible by 8.
Decrease Round 1: *K6, K2 tog, repeat from * all around.
Work 6 rounds plain
Decrease Round 2: *K5, K2 tog, repeat from * all around.
Work 5 rounds plain
Decrease Round 3: *K4, K2 tog, repeat from * all around.
Work 4 rounds plain
Continue in this manner working one less stitch between each decrease and one fewer plain round. Thread the end of the yarn onto a needle and pass the yarn through all remaining sts and pull them tight.
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